Garment manufacture



Feb. 4, 1936. E. 1. GOLDING GARMENT MANUFACTURE Filed April 10, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheen l mama 5 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 GARMENT MANUFACTURE Filed April 10, 193

INVENTOR,

Feb. 4, 1936,

Patented Feb. 4, 1936 UNITED'STATES PATENT oEFIcE Edwin I. Golding, New York, N Y.,' a ssignor to Ira W. Hirshfield, New York, N. Y.

Application April 10, 1935, Serial No. 15,572

2 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of assembling pieces of fabric, as, for instance, in the making of garments to give them a novel and striking effect, appearance, design or ornamentation, particularly, the design known in the trade as chevron effect. The invention relates further to a novel'method of printing the cloth from which the patterns are cut to form the assembly, so that, as the various patterns or parts'of the assembly, such as a garment or dress are sewed together,'the completed assembly will give the said desired chevron effect. The method of this invention embodies a novel method of printing the selected design upon the cloth and a novel method of laying out and cutting the patterns therefrom and piecing and sewing them together.

The invention is not confined to the afore-' jacent pieces, together give the desired chevron effect.

The objects of. this invention are; a method of manufacturing assemblies such as garments or dresses to produce in a novel manner, a chevron effect; a method of printing'the cloth from which the patterns are cut, so that the individual patterns when formed into the finished assembly, will result in the desired chevron design; a meth 0d of printing the cloth, cutting thepatterns therefrom, and piecing them together to achieve the said desirable ornamental result; cloth printed and prepared in a novel manner, as a new article of manufacture; a dress formed in a novel man'- ner from the said novelly printed cloth, which gives the chevron effect in a new striking manner, as a new article of manufacture.

A further object of this invention is to produce, by the aforestated novel methods and articles, not only a chevron effect, but also a diamond and similar ornamental effects as will be more fully described in the specification hereof.- A further object of this invention is to devise a new method of garment or dress manufacture,

with the use of the aforementioned novel print cloth, whereby a given dress pattern may be variously cut out and variously pieced together, so that the same set of patterns and the same cloth will give different chevron effects; the same style of dress'and the same cloth will thus provide a number of dresses of different appearance.

For the attainmentof these objects and such other objects as may appear or'hereinafter be pointed out, I have illustrated in the drawings, one embodiment of my invention wherein: I

Figure 1 depicts the novel cloth and the novel print thereon; v

Figure 2 is av fragmentary View illustrating another one of the great variety ofdesigns which may be adapted to the novel printing of the invention; Y

Figure 3 illustrates the usual manner of lay ing out patterns and cutting them from the cloth;

Figure 4 illustrates the manner in which patterns "are laid and cut, employing the novel methods and 'the novel print cloths of this invention; I

Figure 5 shows the folded cloth of Figure 4 opened up, with the patterns-cut in the cloth, but not removed therefrom;

Figure 6 shows the patterns of Figure 5 removed from the cloth and placed together in the manner in which they 'areto be piecedand sewed together; 1

Figure 7 depicts a completed dress made in accordance with the principles of my invention; and also shows theso-called diamond effect.

Figure 8 shows a further ornamental motif possibility. r

The cloth which is printed, and employed. in the novel methods of this invention, may be of any of the usual widths (a, Fig. 1) in which print cloths are used and sold in the garment industry. The width of the cloth is dividedby an imaginary line X-X, which divides the cloth into. two equal halves, a and a On the righthand half of the cloth, the design is printed with the diagonals of the print design sloping up- ,ward and to the right of the center line. The corresponding diagonals on the left-hand slope upward and to the left of the center line. The diagonals of the right side, of course, meet the corresponding diagonals of the'left half, at the center line X-X. 1 The diagonals may be sloped upward (or all downwardly if desired) at any designed angle, being shown at an angle of in Figure 1. While the design in Figure l is taken, for facility in illustration, as straight lines equally spaced apart, any desired design, from simple straight lines to the most complicated ornate and fanciful motif, may be employed. For example, the-rather simple design of Figure 2 may be-nsed, in which aldistance separation of the diagonals, they may be separated varying distances from each other, as in Figure 2; of course, corresponding diagonals will, always meet at the center line XX.

Instead of straight diagonals, as depicted in Figures 1 and 2, the diagonals may be curved or wavering.

In using the novelly printed cloth in the making of a dress, for example, it is first, i. e. prior to laying out the dress patterns, folded on its center line XX with the printed side of the fabric hidden from view and with the two halves facing each other. See Figure 4. The patterns are then laid out upon the lower or unprinted side of the folded cloth. 1

The patterns are not laid out and cut as they ordinarily would be, but must be laid out in accordance with the following procedure: Figure 3 illustrates patterns laid out in the usual manner. Four patterns are shown, A, B, C and D. A is to be sewed to B along the edges designated by crosses in both A and B, and designated A1, and B1, respectively; B is to be sewed to C along the edges designated by small circles in both B and C and designated B2 and C2, respectively; C is to be sewed to D along the edges designated in both C and D by dashes and designated C: and D3, respectively; the edge designated D4 of D is to be sewed to the edge designated A4 of A.

In laying out patterns according to the novel method of this invention, alternate patterns are reversed, that is, alternate patterns are laid out, facing in a direction opposite to the direction they ordinarily would assume. This is illustrated in Figure-4. The first pattern, A, would be laid out to face in the same direction as in Figure 3; for example, the edge A1 of pattern A is to the right of edge A4 in both Figure 3 and Figure 4. The second pattern, B,

is, however, reversed; that is, whereas in Figure 3, edge B1 is to the left of the edge B2, in Figure 4, theseedges are reversed as that edge B2 is now to the left of edge B1.

Pattern C is laid out as in Figure 3; pattern D is reversed. It will thus be seen that alternate patterns, to wit, B and D are reversed from left to right.

The patterns are then cut as laid out in Figure 4, to give two sets of patterns. However, for the purposes of expiaining the process, it will be assumed that the patterns are cut in the folded novel print cloth, see Figure 4, but are not removed therefrom. If the cloth, with the pattern out but left in place, is opened up on its center line X-X, it would appear as in Figure 5.

The right half of the cloth,i. e. to the right of the center line XX, would have the patterns 13, B, C and D, which face in the same directions as shown in Figure 4, before the cloth is unfolded. The patterns A5. B's, C5 and D's on the left-hand half would be reverses, i. e. mirror reverses, of the patterns of the right-hand half; that is, they would face in the opposite direction. For example, edge A4 of the right-hand pattern A is to the left of its edge A1 whereas the edge A4 of'the left-hand pattern A5 is to the right of its edge A1.

This is true as between B and B's, C and C5, and D and D's. It will also be seen that pat tern A, B, C and D have the diagonals sloped upward to the right, whereas the diagonals in patterns A5, B's, C5 and D's slope upward to the left.

The eight patterns constituting two complete sets of patterns, shown in the unfolded printed cloth of Figure 5, are pieced together, as shown in Figure 6. One set of patterns, designated L, will be identical in contour to the other set, R, but will be the mirror image of the other as regards the pattern layout.

Two of the four patterns of the group R, namely A and C, are taken from the right-hand half of the printed cloth; in both A and C, therefore, the diagonals slope upward to the right. The othertwo patterns, namely, B's and D's, are taken from the left-hand half, and therefore present diagonals which slope to the left. The

diagonals of alternate patterns thus slope in alternate directions. Hence when the alternate patterns are pieced and sewed together, the oppositely sloping diagonals of the alternate patterns will cause the desired chevron effect.

It should be observed, inasmuch as alternate patterns when laid out upon the folded cloth were reversed, that when alternate patterns taken one from the left-hand half of the cloth and the other from the right-hand half are placed and sewed together, the adjoining edges of adjacent patterns will be correctly positioned. For example, the edge A1 of pattern A. of dress R will be adjacent to edge B1 of pattern 185, etc. It will be obvious that instead of folding the cloth so that its printed side is hidden from view, the same result may be produced by having the printed side on the outside, and, this may be of advantage for particular purposes.

The two sets of patterns shown in Figure 6 when sewed together will obviously serve to form a garment adapted for the upper portion of the human form. As heretofore mentioned the two sets of patterns L and R, when assembled are mirror images of each other.

For example, the diagonals in pattern A of set R of Figure 6, slope upward to the right, whereas the corresponding part of set L presents diagonals which slope upward to the left. By increasing the number of patterns to be cut to form a dress and/or by cutting a number of folded cloths printed in the novel manner of this invention and by combining the pieces in various combinations, a great number of dresses of the same style. and cloth may be evolved which differ from each other in appearance and design.

Also, by forming the top part of a dress, 1. e. the waist of a folded piece of material bearing the novel print of this invention and cutting the waist patterns so that the apex or corners of the diagonals point upward, and by cutting the patterns of the skirt part of the dress so that the apex or corners of the diagonals point downwards, a diamond effect may be produced. Such an effect may also be produced at other portions of the dress. For example in Figure 7 the diamond effect is shown in the upper portions of a dress. I 1

Other effects or variations are possible. For example, the diagonals may be pieced and sewed together with their points on the center line XX, i. eat the line of sewing, as A1-B1, etc. staggered. This is shown in Figure 8, in which trated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The method of producing chevron effects in an assembly consisting of a plurality of separate pieces united along contiguous edges, out of a piece of cloth patternedon its right side so that the pattern on one side of the longitudinal medial 'line thereof is the mirror image of the pattern on the opposite side, and each-of said patterns being constituted by diagonal-like striped contours meeting at said longitudinal medial line so as to givea chevron effect: said method including the steps of doubling over said cloth along its longitudinal medial line, whereby the striped contours on its two halves run in the same direction, laying out the pieces constituting the assembly on one of the surfaces of said doubledover cloth, so that one piece of each pair of pieces that are contiguously positioned in the assembly, is the mirror image-of the contour required for fitting it to'the other piece of the pair, and further positioning their contiguous edges so that the diagonal-like contour will intersect said edges at an angle sufficient to produce a chevron effect when the pieces are joined, cutting through said doubled-over cloth along said pattern lines, whereby two sets of pieces are produced, each piece of one set having its counterpart in the other set and differing therefrom in that it is a. mirror image of the other, thereafter selecting the pieces required for an assembly by taking one of each pair of pieces contiguously positioned in the assembly from different layers of said doubled over cloth, and joining saidselected pieces together so as to form the completed assembly, and

similarly joining the remaining pieces to form an assembly that is the mirror image of the said firstmentioned assembly.

2. The method of producing chevron eifects in an assembly consisting of a plurality of separate pieces united along contiguous edges, out of cloth having a striped efiect pattern involving parallel stripe-like contours on itsright side, said method including the steps of superposing two layers of said cloth with the right side of one layer facing oppositely to the right side of the other layer, and so that the stripe-like contours of both of said layers run in the samedirection, cutting out the pieces constituting the assembly according to a lay-out on one side of the surface of said superposed layers of cloth; involving laying out one piece of each pair of pieces that are contiguously positioned in the'assembly so that it is the mirror image of the contour required for fitting it to the other piece of the pair, and further so that their contiguous edges are so positioned that the stripe-like contours will intersect said edges at an angle sufficient to produce a chevron efiect when the pieces are joined, whereby two sets of pieces are produced, each piece of one set having its counterpart in the other set and differing therefrom in that it is a mirror image of the other, thereafter selecting the pieces required for an assembly by taking one of each pair of pieces contiguously positioned in the assembly from different layers of said superposed layers of cloth, and joining said selected pieces together so as to form the completed assembly.

EDWIN I. GOLDING. 

